The scars on the hills surrounding this village tell the story of a once-thriving plaster industry, where minerals were extracted and fired. This long-abandoned trade is said to have given the town its name: Hornillos de Cerrato, with “hornillos” meaning small ovens, referring to the kilns used for plaster production. However, as the original residents left in search of better opportunities, the town’s name lost its relevance. Once home to about a hundred people, it teetered on the brink of obscurity.
Fortunately, these same hills also witness the rebirth of a population once destined to follow the path of so many other rural areas drained by the exodus to the cities.
We are at the heart of emptied Spain, but visiting the town and talking to its people reveals that something is changing.
How is it possible that this place is experiencing an unexpected rise in population? A new generation of visionaries, locals determined not to give up, and the support of wind turbines installed by ACCIONA Energía in the surrounding mountains are driving this transformation. In this article, we explore the keys to this change and why it could serve as a model of hope for other struggling regions.
Hornillos de Cerrato, nestled in the Palencia region of El Cerrato in northern Spain, about 230 kilometers northwest of Madrid, once boasted 520 residents in the mid-20th century. By 2011, that number had dwindled to just 109. Understanding the town’s past helps illuminate the forces behind its recent resurgence.
This traditionally agricultural area has long grown crops like wheat, barley, and legumes. But between 1914 and 1988, gypsum mining became a significant part of the town’s life.
By the late 1980s, the gypsum veins were exhausted, and the industry shut down. The once-bustling mines fell silent. It would take four decades for them to come back to life, albeit for very different reasons.
“The memory of empty Spain is filled with stories of struggle, survival, and stubborn resistance to extinction,” reflects Sergio del Molino in his book Empty Spain: Journey through a Country that Never Was. This quote perfectly captures the quiet determination with which Hornillos de Cerrato has faced the rural exodus.
If you are lucky enough to visit, you will notice something unusual for towns in this region: its streets are bursting with flowers, greenery, and life. A new economic lifeline is behind this transformation, and it would not have been possible without the commitment and vision of its residents.
Today, traditional agriculture coexists with a technology that not only helps combat climate change but also contributes directly to the town's regeneration: wind energy, in the form of 40 turbines. Since 2012, locals have watched as windmills began to dot the hills surrounding their vast plains, and with them, a marked improvement in their quality of life.
“The arrival of the wind farm has marked a turning point for Hornillos. With the income generated—our town’s budget has grown by 350,000 euros—we’ve been able to manage things very differently. Along with improving the village to make it more attractive, we’ve focused on providing services for our people,” says Ignacio Valdeolmillos, mayor and farmer of Hornillos de Cerrato.
How do the turbines coexist with agriculture? Speaking to those involved, the response is overwhelmingly positive. Many of the turbines are on land owned by locals, who receive annual payments for hosting them. Additionally, the development of the wind farms has improved access for farmers, and in some cases, created new paths.
Hornillos de Cerrato was recently awarded the EOLO Prize for the Rural Integration of Wind Energy 2024 by the Spanish Wind Energy Association (AEE). The municipality was recognized for showcasing how wind energy can harmoniously coexist with other economic, environmental, and cultural activities. The revenue from wind power has funded new services and created jobs for the local community.
One example is the “medicalized” cab service driven by Elena Fañanas, which is 90% subsidized by the town council. It transports elderly residents to medical centers in nearby towns like Torquemada, Palencia, or Valladolid.
The 'medicalized' cab service transports elderly residents to medical centers.
Another success story is Carmen Pérez, who arrived in Hornillos ten years ago to run the only restaurant in the village, the Restaurant-Bar Cultural Association. At midday on any given day, you will find locals, visitors from nearby villages, and wind farm workers gathering for a drink while waiting for lunch.
Walking through Hornillos also reveals new amenities, including a cultural center, a summer school for children, a miniature golf course, a paddle tennis court, a modern swimming pool, a hair salon, a library, and an internet-equipped computer room. . Fiber optics and electricity are co-financed by the town, thanks to renewable energy contributions.
All this activity has had a striking impact: Hornillos de Cerrato’s population has grown from 109 in 2011 to 175 in 2024.
One of the key strategies for sustaining Hornillos de Cerrato’s revival is boosting local tourism. The town council is developing a project to turn its old gypsum mines into a museum. Visitors will be able to explore this 20-hectare underground network, supported by pillars, and learn how gypsum was mined in the past.
ACCIONA Energía has also launched the “Among windmills” route, a circular trail connecting the municipalities of Herrera de Valdecañas, Hornillos de Cerrato, and Valdecañas de Cerrato, where the Celada Fusión wind farm is located. Whether by foot or bike, visitors can discover the most impressive sights of the Cerrato Palentino, including castles, churches, wineries, and shepherds’ huts, while participating in educational activities about renewable energy.
We began by reflecting on the future of rural Spain and other regions facing depopulation. However, their story is not yet fully written, and there may still be many chapters to come. Renewable energy is reshaping the global economy, but it’s also creating new opportunities at the local level.
We need more people like Carmen Pérez, Elena Fañanas, and Víctor Pérez, who believe in the potential for change and are ready to embrace the possibilities of the new economy. And more leaders like Ignacio Valdeolmillos, who are finding ways, both big and small, to turn these “emptied” towns into what he describes as “a Spain full of hope.”